My Beautiful Jailoo

Let's go

At the Bishkek bus station, Samuel whispers these last few words: "The driver will drop you off at Svetlaya Polyana, where Nuray will be waiting for you." Complete reassurance comes from the fact that Samuel Maret and his team at Nomad’s Land have been organizing custom tourist trips for over twenty years.

Svetlaya Polyana 

Svetlaya Polyana, I have already visited. It is a peaceful little village on the southern shore of Lake Issyk Kul (more precisely in the Jeti Oguz district), nestled at the foot of the alpine meadows. A dream for someone hoping to spend a week in tranquility, far from the hustle and bustle of the city.

After a six-hour drive, arrival at the guesthouse of Nuray and her family is finally reached. A warm welcome is extended by her husband, Tilekmat, who excels in the art of crafting wooden furniture. Nuray's father, Jylekadar, a former mayor of the commune, is very active in the region's tourism development. There is also the youngest, Chynybay, who, always wearing a felt kalpak, is discovering a spirit of exploration and is eager to set out to conquer the wide world.

A region to visit

Travelers interested in Kyrgyzstan are familiar with Jeti Oguz, famous for its "Seven Red Rocks." However, the entire area between the city of Karakol and the towns of Barskon and Tossor offers spectacular geology. As one moves away from the lake's shores, contrasting landscapes of forests, meadows, and ochre hills unfold. Higher up, the scenery transitions to gently rolling mountains, then to vast high plateaus and sparkling glaciers stretching as far as the eye can see.

Family and celebration above all else

Let's return to Svetlaya Polyana. This small village is nestled on the first slopes, halfway between the large valleys of Jeti Oguz and Chonk Kyzyl Suu. Upon my arrival, Nuray warns me, "We won't have much time to spend with you. Family is coming to visit, and we will have to prepare the bechbarmak." I know very well what that means. After slaughtering a sheep, the women will spend an entire day preparing meals for a good twenty people. Nuray, who wants to involve me in these preparations, suggests that I make the traditional liver sausages. I gladly submit to this lesson in local cuisine.

The Love of Jailoo

What attracted me to this region are the jailoo, which could be translated as "high-altitude pastures." In my mind, the jailoo are both mountain farms and yurt camps, and of course, a semi-nomadic way of life that accompanies them. This method of moving livestock is familiar to me. It resembles the alpine pastures we still sometimes practice in the Alps. Along with the livestock, it's the whole or part of the family that moves, bringing everything needed for daily life. Here, the yurt camps welcome tourists, hikers, or passing mountain bikers. And for me, it's the most pleasant way to spend a few days in the mountains.

Chong Kyzyl Suu

Not wanting to participate in the upcoming celebration, a decision is made to gain some altitude and walk into the valley of Chong Kyzyl Suu. At the end of May, the grass is still very green and the mountains sparkle in the sunlight. After a few kilometers on the dusty road, a small footbridge is crossed. Here is the yurt camp of Nurlan. This moment is savored alone, lulled by the roar of a river swollen by melting snow. When Nurlan arrives, he invites for tea and, after inquiring about his friend Samuel, he advises to visit the hot springs, located further up the valley, an hour and a half’s walk away.

The hot springs of Chong Kyzyl Suu

For a bit of history, a visit was made about fifteen years earlier, in the middle of winter, with Samuel. At that time, the excursion was extended to the old Soviet geophysical center. Due to the road being impassable because of heavy snow, the decision was made to continue on horseback. From that epic expedition, a few photos and the memory of a place out of time remain. The descent was made on skis on the steepest part of the road, then towed by the vehicle on the lower part of the valley.

The places have changed significantly since then. New constructions now allow guests to spend the night, and an outdoor pool has been added. It was there that a cheerful group of young Belgians, led by Ike, a brewer and importer of an abbey beer that comes highly recommended, were met.

Ak Tash yurt camp

The camp of Nurlan and Albina, named Ak Tash, is ideally located in the Chong Kyzyl Suu valley. It serves as an excellent starting point for numerous hikes. The trails leading to the pastures are varied and offer elevations well-suited for mountain biking. This had been discussed at length with Samuel: the routes are still not well-referenced and insufficiently marked. Therefore, support is being provided to the local tourism promotion association to better structure the offerings and support the initiatives of local stakeholders.

The hospitality of Nurlan and Albina honors the Kyrgyz tradition. The camp has not yet reached its peak summer activity, and the family is taking the opportunity to make some improvements. Albina is a wonderful cook, and at sunset, her freshly made manti make the mouth water. Even as the only guest, the care provided feels as if being treated like a family member.

Local museums full of treasures

Upon returning to Svetlaya Polyana, Nuray and Tilekmat decided to show me every nook and cranny of their region. And that's perfect because I love immersing myself in the culture and history of the places I visit. Around Svetlaya Polyana, several local museums are run by heritage enthusiasts.

The visit begins at the historical museum of Orgochor. Located not far from the village of Svetlaya Polyana, on the road connecting Chong Kyzyl Suu to Jeti Oguz, this museum offers a high-quality museography. It showcases the regional genealogy as well as the traditional lifestyle of the local populations. In the center of the main room stands a large, richly decorated yurt, a true symbol of Kyrgyz cultural identity.

Another charming museum, though of an older design, is the small ethnographic museum of Barakan, located in the buildings of the Svetaya Polyana school. In another wing of the building, an exhibition recalls the war against Nazi Germany.

Always guided by Nuray and Tilekmat, a bit of altitude is gained to reach Tchong Kyzyl Suu, in the valley of the same name. This small village is charming. It serves as the gateway to higher jailoos. There, locals have established a small local museum to honor the personalities who have contributed to local development. As is often the case in these village museums, there is a subtle scent of nostalgia for the Soviet era, but more importantly, a genuine attachment to the still vibrant mountain and semi-nomadic culture is felt.

The artisan luthier, manufacturers of kumuz

The following day, Nuray and Tilekmat prepared the most wonderful visit for me: that of one of the rare komuz manufacturers. Yrys Ava welcomes us into a timeless workshop where magnificent instruments are displayed. All have been entirely handmade, following ancestral craftsmanship. The light is beautiful, and I take the opportunity to photograph the artisan and his wife.

Like many families, Yrys's family possesses numerous talents. One of their activities involves beekeeping. Currently (it is late May), the hives are still in the village. Soon, it will be time to move them to the high-altitude meadows where the flowers are already in full bloom. 

In Kyrgyzstan, visits cannot conclude without sharing tea and the delicious borsok with honey and cream.

Return to the jailoo of Siuttu Bulak

In my eyes, this alpine pasture perfectly embodies what a jailoo represents: a few small farms, caravans with thin wisps of smoke escaping — a promise of a good meal in preparation. A few yurts complete this picturesque scene. This microcosm fits into a rather gentle landscape, composed of pastures surrounded by coniferous forests. In the background, slightly higher peaks are still covered with snow. Siuttu Bulak illustrates the ideal jailoo, with its peaceful atmosphere, disturbed only by the calls of shepherds gathering their flocks as the day draws to a close.

The translation of the selected text into English is as follows: It is Jylekadar who is taking me there. Nuray and her son Chynybay wouldn't miss this trip to the pasture for anything in the world. The air is deliciously fresh, and the atmosphere particularly clear. As we ascend, we catch sight of the blue line of Lake Issyk Kul in the distance. On the way, Jylekedar shares his vision for the development of his region: "With the mayors of neighboring municipalities and the district's Akim, we believe it is possible to have sustainable and quality tourism here. The place is so well-suited for hiking, biking, and even skiing." I agree, having come with friends to evaluate these different possibilities. For now, the local populations are slowly organizing to improve services for tourists and to make their voices heard by the authorities.

The stay of a few days between Jeti Oguz and Chong Kyzyl Suu is coming to an end. This is without a doubt one of the favorite places in Kyrgyzstan, and it is highly recommended to spend some time there. 

Nomad's Land offers immersive experiences, ranging from the most sporty to the most contemplative. For those who enjoy walks with moderate elevation changes, the alpine roads and shepherds' paths will be perfect. These routes are ideal for mountain biking. Hiking and trekking enthusiasts can reach the syrt, high plateaus with spectacular expanses. In winter, ski touring routes offer off-the-beaten-path adventures. The entire Nomad's Land team is dedicated to providing a unique and memorable journey.